Were Going on Vacation to FL. Is there anything i should Know about riding in Salt water?

If you plan on riding the next day than you don't have to flush but it is a good idea.
After a weekend of riding I allways flush with "Salt Away" . I also spray the whole inside of the ski with Saltaway and after I drain all the water I spray the entire motor ,pump and all metal parts with "Boeshield T-9".
Never had any problems with rust.
Get youself some goggles or glasses as the salt might sting your eyes (if you're not used to it) and most important RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT !


Live when I'm alive , Sleep when I'm dead
01 GP1200r almost stock
http://users.belgacom.net/treets_reservesite/dubdub.html

Boris, I respectfully disagree with you...

Musky - flush EVERY TIME after you're done riding in salt water. Don't wait until the last day you're riding to flush. Salt is very corrosive and will start its nasty business right away. My recommendation, based on the last 11 years of riding in saltwater, is:

Before you go - spray EVERYTHING internal with a lube like WD-40 or silicon spray. There are many arguements about the type of spray, but I've used WD-40 with great success for 11 years now so its fine with me.

After you ride:

- If you have aftermarket flame arrestors, cover them. I use shower caps to cover mine. If you have stock flame arrestors, no worry.
- Open the drain plugs and tilt the trailer up slightly
- Rinse the entire inside of the ski from nose to back with A LOT of freshwater from the hose. Don't use added pressure - just the pressure from the end of a hose without a spray gun etc. Don't worry about getting water inside, everything is waterproof. The only care you need to worry about is around the flame arrestors. If you have aftermarket, take more care...
- After you've rinsed the inside well, take off the shower caps if you used them, then flush the motor (salt away etc is great if you have it). I flush AFTER rinsing so the vibration of the motor will knock most of the water hung up in odd places to the bottom hull and out the drain.
- Once you're done flushing the motor, spray everything again with lube, especially if you're going riding in the ocean the next day.
- Wipe up any excess water that doesn't drain. I use a wet vac but I doubt you will have that on vacation though you might be able to use a vacuum at a car wash...

Following steps like these will keep the inside of your ski and motor looking like new even though you ride every day in the ocean. And when it comes to taking off parts, you will greatly appreciate the lack of corrosion you will have...

Ray

Enjoy all,

Ray

1995 SS Sea Doo XP
2001 Not Quite Stock 1200 GPR
2002 Not Quite Stock Super Jet
2002 Not Quite Stock Kawi STX-R
2002 SS GPR

I completetly agree with Ray and his advice was good. I like to do a few extra steps though. I do the following which may be slightly overkill, but better safe than sorry
-spray the pump down with a good silicon spray (i use Sea Doo silicon spray) get it up into the intake grate over the shaft and also into the steering nozzle
-spray down all nuts and bolts around the ski hull(sponson bolts, visor screws if you have a GPR, etc) make sure you clean up the excess around the sponsons or else the silicon can stain them
-don't forget about your trailer!!! spray silicon over all nuts and bolts since they just love to rust! also, it may be a pain, but i like to take the light covers off and spray a good amount of silicon over the metal in there to prevent that stuff from rusting. getting a rusted light bulb out is a major pain in the arse!

basically anything that can rust... spray it down with silicon!! the stuff is a lot cheaper than replacing parts!

GP1300R
Waveeater powervalve clips/couplers
Riva PPK
sealed pump
87mm pump nozzle
solas 14/20 depitched to 11/18
billet impeller cone
R&D GP800R intake grate
R&D 1200 rideplate w/ skegs removed & angle mod by IR
GPS'ed @ 71.4mph

sky...i like your gps @71.4....I wonder what i need to do to get there. I'm at 68.7 with 87 octane. what do you suggest?

GP1300r pump support kit
Riva PPK sealed, hull inserts, stepped sponsons
Riva Solas Concord sb 13/20
87mm pump nozzle
Riva Ride Plate w/washers
Riva 800 single bar intake grate
68.7 mph GPS
98 GSX Limited
2002 Kia Rio Cinco

Gilson- I like it too

First difference is that I'm using the 14/20 depitched. The impeller I believe has a larger hub than the set back and allows it to displace more water. I'd assume maybe a 1mph top end difference.

Also, I have the skegs removed off my ride plate and also have an angle mod done by Island Racing. That mod alone is worth about 2pmh.

Those two differences should get you into the 71 to 72mph ballpark!

GP1300R
Waveeater powervalve clips/couplers
Riva PPK
sealed pump
87mm pump nozzle
solas 14/20 depitched to 11/18
billet impeller cone
R&D GP800R intake grate
R&D 1200 rideplate w/ skegs removed & angle mod by IR
GPS'ed @ 71.4mph

I agree with Ray. My skis live in salt and even with that much care. My skis have over 100 hours from new and the ski still looks, rides, and smells brand new! Dont leave ski out without cover, its just fades the ski away I also lube all cable ends/joints with grease every month(your case just before and aft your vacation). Use anti seize on trailer lugs every month - it will reduce the choirs down rather than lube after every use. Dont forget to rinse trailer.

In a nut shell, rinse in out of ski and trailer. Rinse, dry, then lube. Dont rinse when ski is hot-rinse complete inside hull first before flush.