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I own a 2001 XL800 and want to flush with Salt Away and Antifreeze. I have searched this entire site and want to verify data. I want to use my 5 gallon boat flush kit for my waverunner. I will fill it with 2 gallons of antifreeze and mount it 4 feet above ski to get good flow. Hook it up to flush hose adapter and turn on ski, then open valve on antifreeze tank. This will allow engine to suck up the antifreeze, I think.

My question is if I need to clamp off water intake hose from pump to keep all the antifreeze from just running out that way and not around engine and out water box.

If the engine is running, if the water intake hose is not clamped shut, will the antifreeze be sucked up around engine using gravity feed or will it just run out through the pump?


2001 XL800, WaveEater PV coupler, WaveEater PV clips, R&D rideplate, R&D intake, Solas 11/14 impellar
 
Posts: 41 | Location: Roswell, Georgia | Registered: September 10, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Are you keeping the boat indoors or outside? Will it be heated if indoors?

Seeing that you are in GA, I doubt that it get cold enough to create frozen damage. Run the anti-frezze through the boat (use the good marine grade). pump teh throtle a few times to get the flow started. Then let it idle intill a good flow is comming out. Shut off the flow and boat at teh same time. You shouldn't have to pinch any hoses off.


2001 GPR,PPK, Solas 14/20, R&D Head, Carbs by Island Racing, JetWorks Mod, T&W Crank, Pro-X Pistions, V-Force, Advent, Tach, GPS, stickers and pissers... on a sesame seed bun.
 
Posts: 502 | Location: Hammond, IN | Registered: June 18, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Here is a complete list of winterization tips for ya. Flushing is included.

These are just some basic guidelines for most two stroke skis. For any skis with fuel injection, skip the fogging of the carbs.

Acceptance

1. Shed a tear knowing you are putting your beloved ski(s) to rest
temporarliy to save money for next year's mods, trips, and possibly
new additions to the family.

2. Say a few cuss words knowing that you didn't choose to live in a
warmer climate zone such as Florida or Southern California.

3. Take a deep breath and get ready to winterize your baby. Read this list
over carefully first and gather all items needed and any tools required
before starting.


Fuel and Oil

1. Top of your fuel tank to prevent condensation.

2. Add fuel stabilizer.

3. Top off your oil as well to prevent condensation. Your oil does not need
any stabilizers since it has a long shelf life.


Cooling and Exhaust

1. Flush your engine with Salt-Away if used in salt water.

2. If you will be keeping your ski outside or in conditions where the temps
will drop below freezing, you need to flush your cooling system with
anti-freeze. Make sure the anti-freeze you use is ok for use with
aluminum engine components. I recommend Prestone antifreeze. This
is the procedure I use to get antifreeze into the cooling lines and to coat
the engine:

A. Take your garden hose and fill it with a good amount of antifreeze
using a funnel.
B. Attach the garden hose to your flush kit
C. Start your engine
D. Turn on your flush kit
E. When you see the antifreeze coming out your cooling line pissers and
out the rear (prestone antifreeze is green in color), you know the
engine has been coated with antifreeze. Turn off your flush kit.
F. Blip your throttle a few times to remove any water remaining in your
engine and/or waterbox
G. Shut your engine off. Be sure not to run your engine longer than
your owner's manual specifies without any cooling sources

3. Remove your water box if it is easy to do so and empty out most of the
remaining water. You will not be able to remove all water due to the
waterbox having baffles. This step can be skipped if it is hard to access
or remove. Reinstall the water box.


Fogging

1. Start your engine and spray fogging oil (I use Bombardier/ Sea Doo
spray lube) into your carbs. Check your owner's manual about access
to your carbs through your flame arresters. It may be necessary to
remove after market flame arrestors. Do this until your engine quits or
for as long as your owner's manual allows for the engine to be running
without an external cooling source.

2. Repeat step one for each carb allowing adequate cooling time for your
engine between carbs.

3. Remove your spark plug wires and ground them to a grounding post or
to a head bolt.

4. Remove a spark plug and spray fogging oil into the cylinder. Spray
enough for a light coating. Then cover the hole with a rag and bump
your starter a few times. Install your spark plug lightly by hand and
repeat for your other cylinder(s).


Battery

1. Disconnect your battery and remove from the ski.

2. Do any required maintenance to your battery (IE refill acid levels, top off
water cell levels with distilled water, etc)

3. Place your battery on a rubber matt and place on a trickle charger.


Hull maintenance

1. Wash your ski inside and out. Be sure to remove all water from inside
your ski.

2. Wax your hull. Be sure to avoid your decals as some waxes will
damage them.

3. Spray a light silicone coating over your engine. Avoid rubber
components such as exhaust tubes as some silicone sprays will damage
these over time and with sun exposure. Wipe off any excess.

4. Spray your jet pump and intake area with a light silicone coating.

5. Lube and grease all components that are listed in your owner's manual
such as trim cables, steering cables, pump linings, steering arm pivots,
latches, pump bearings, etc. Refer to your owner's manual for a
complete list.


Storage

1. Cover any holes such as your jet pump, intake grate, exhaust holes,
etc with a rag or plastic to prevent critters from making a nest in your
ski or worse!

2. Prop your seat up to prevent moisture from forming inside your engine
compartment.

3. Add a small amount of grease to your drain plugs o-ring. Install them
loosely into your ski.

4. Cover your ski and pray the riding season comes faster than it passed!


_______________________________________
05 SXR
98 SJ
94 Waveblaster

NJ/PA Crew President -AWA charter club
www.njpacrew.org
 
Posts: 623 | Location: Philadelphia, PA | Registered: June 19, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks for the information but my question was when adding antifreeze by gravity flow (not water pressure) the antifreeze just drained out through the pump and did not get sucked up by the engine.

I feel that I need to clamp off the water inlet hose to make it go around the engine and out through the waterbox. Otherwise it will take the easy way and just drain out the pump.


2001 XL800, WaveEater PV coupler, WaveEater PV clips, R&D rideplate, R&D intake, Solas 11/14 impellar
 
Posts: 41 | Location: Roswell, Georgia | Registered: September 10, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Wildcat,

In your climate, you really only need to make sure you push out all the water. You don't need to clamp teh lines. It you don't think antifreeze is getting in, shut the flow off and give the throttle a few pulls... You will see antifreeze come out.


2001 GPR,PPK, Solas 14/20, R&D Head, Carbs by Island Racing, JetWorks Mod, T&W Crank, Pro-X Pistions, V-Force, Advent, Tach, GPS, stickers and pissers... on a sesame seed bun.
 
Posts: 502 | Location: Hammond, IN | Registered: June 18, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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