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Hi guys, I bought a GP1200W a couple days ago that had been standing for over a year. Bought a new battery, cleaned the carbs and fuel lines and got it running 100%. Took it to a dam on the weekend and after it running fine for about 30sec it just cut out. After checking everything I saw it has no spark. I have checked the fuse, stop switch, etc and have found nothing.
I have only found a workshop manual for the GP1200R online, and the wiring seems a little different, so not sure which wires from the stator I need to check the resistance on? I see there is one cable with 4 wires from the stator housing coming into a plug in the electric box, which all seem to have some risistance between each other, then a seperate cable with slightly thicker wires. 3 of the thicker wires also come to a plug in the box, but have no resistance between each other or ground.
Does anyone know where I should be checking before I go to the CDI, and if it might be the CDI, where could I find the resistance specs between the different wires?

I know these are alot of questions at once, but if anyone has any advice, I would really appreciate it!
Thanks
Marc
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: February 14, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Welcome to our forums! Stand Wave

Sorry that a problem is how you found us. There are a number of reasons why your craft is giving you trouble including mechanical. Unfortunately electrical problems are a real pain to track down. You're on the right track as far as testing, but you really need an OEM Service Manual so you can see which wires you should be testing and what their values should be. It's tough to describe. The service manuals have wiring diagrams as well as trouble shooting charts.


RIVA CREW
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Posts: 4869 | Location: Pompano Beach, FL - USA | Registered: August 28, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the reply!
I decided to take the stator cover off today and check things out, and discovered that the 3 bolts holding the stator onto the cover had all been stripped/pulled out so the stator was loose in the flywheel. Doesn't seem to have too much damage, although the one winding seems to be damaged and has no continuity..
Does anyone perhaps know where I could get hold of a used or aftermarket stator? The OEM ones seem a bit pricy.. I have found 1 or 2 stators for the GP1200R, but it differs to the 1200W. I think any of the 1200W/1200x/1200V would be the same.

Thanks,
Marc
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: February 14, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That would be the mechanical gremlin I referred to which caused the electrical problem. Roll Eyes At least you found it fairly easily.

Unless you know for a fact that the craft you acquire the "used" stator from was running perfect I would shy away from buying used electrical parts. I can appreciate money being tight, but you could end up tripping over a dollar trying to save a dime.


RIVA CREW
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Posts: 4869 | Location: Pompano Beach, FL - USA | Registered: August 28, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi, Thanks

I actually managed to get the damaged coil rewound by someone that specialises in winding motorcycle stators which are exactly the same.
Put everything back and it's working! Something I noticed though, it that at idle, there is a big vibration/rattle that seems to be coming from the flywheel area on the front! It only happens at idle though (rattles like an engine idling too low almost, but it's not) and it dissapears as soon as the revs pick up. Is there anything else I can check for? Maybe the flywheel could be loose or something?? It's quite a big job to take everything apart again..
Thanks
Marc
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: February 14, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Great! A lot of times the starter bendix doesn't retract completely or the spring is worn to the point that it allows the bendix to move. Unfortunately, in order to check it you will have to remove the flywheel cover.

While doing that I would definitely check the flywheel bolt to make sure it is properly torqued (50 ft/lbs). If it isn't and you rotate it while checking torque completely remove it, add red Loc-tite to the bolt threads and replace it.

Something else to consider as the cause, which is fairly common, is the driveline. Here are two things to look for.

1) If the coupler damper is shot the couplers will come into contact with each other.
2) The short shaft housing bearings and/or short shaft are shot. There is a grease fitting or hose with a grease fitting attached to the top of the bearing housing. If you don't add grease regularly the moving parts will wear out.

In either of those two situations a low rpm vibration or rattle will be noticeable.


RIVA CREW
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Posts: 4869 | Location: Pompano Beach, FL - USA | Registered: August 28, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Riva Crew,

Thanks for the reply!
I actually stripped the whole thing before reading your post and greased all the gears under the flywheel cover, hoping that would sort the problem. After putting everything back and washing it, I remembered finding a spring on the garage floor a couple days ago, not knowing where it cam from!! I presume this spring belongs between the shaft of the starter clutch assembly and the bush type thing in the stator cover where the shaft slides into??

If this is the case, I will have to remove the entire thing for the 5th time in a week!

Please let me know if this is the case so I can build up the courage to start the process again!

Thanks,
Marc
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: February 14, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Man that suxxx... Roll Eyes Yep, that would definitely cause it. Well, at least you're becoming very familiar with your craft!!! Razz Big Grin

There should be a washer on each side of the spring as well (item 7 below). A standard, stainless steel M6 washer will do the trick. Make sure you grease them up well.



RIVA CREW
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Posts: 4869 | Location: Pompano Beach, FL - USA | Registered: August 28, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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