Well guys, I pulled my waverunner out off the dock this past weekend to install some more mods, come to find out the pump seal didnt seat right when trying to get bolts out spun the brass fittings on the other side, Had to take out the whole back end of the bike to get to the brass fittings heated them and after 4 hrs of trying to get the vise grips on there, and the power of god allmighty! and remove the bolts that had lock-tite on there, along with that the rubber bungee cord that holds the exaust can down was broken off, have no clue how to fix that. Spent all weekend trying to fix the previous mods, didnt get to ride it or install the new mods, GRRR.... Im sure it will all be worth it once im done.

Hi Clint:

That problem is a new one on me! But, A word of advise from someone who's been turning wrenches for 25yrs. Don't use high strength loctite (red), i.e. (Loctite 271, 277, etc.); especially on aluminum. Brass is a harder metal than the aluminum alloy used on you PWC, but neither requires that type of bond strength.

High strength loctite does have it's applications, but none of them are on a PWC.

Use only Loctite (blue) 242, its medium strength. I use it on all the nuts and bolts on my PWC. I ride hard and have never had a problem with it. I have had problems with Loctite-red though. Several sheared bolts that were a pain in the assss to drill out.

NO NUT OR BOLT ON YOUR PWC NEEDS THIS TYPE OF BOND.

Also, to save you potential grief with your Al-alloy engine head(s), I strongly recommend using Loctite antisieze (nickle-base prefered) on your sparkplug threads. If your like me, I regularly check my sparkplugs to help maintain my engine in perfect or near perfec running condition. And I know from working on car engines, it can sometimes be too **** easy to cross-thread or even strip threads on Aluminum Heads.

Good Luck, and I hope some of this info will save you greif in the future. By the way, I live in Broken Arrow. I useually ride at Skiatook, and dock at Black Dog; where do you ride.

271 or 242 is not to be used on the head, cylinders or pump bolts.

Loctite 572 which is a white soft sealing is actually a pipe thread sealand. The purpose is to seal the threads and prevent water from either traveling all the way or corroding the metal.

RED OT BLUE LOCTITE ARE THE WRONG SEALANTS TO USE IN THESE LOCATIONS.

The only bolt in the pump that use red loctite are the ones that secure the turning nozzle

i use red loctite on the bolts on the handle bars and the mounts for the steering

Fercho,

My reply had nothing to do with thread sealants. I assumed that Clint's problem was the result of using a High Strength bonding agent. I've seen it happen to too many people countless times.

High strength loctite 271 is not warranted at the nozzle. Yes, I know the Chapter 6 of the Yamaha manual shows it's application there, but it is not required. The bond strength of Loctite 271 is too much for securing the threads of a steel bolt into the female end of a softer metal (like Aluminum-alloys or Bronze fittings). On another, but similar note, Loctite 271 also too much bond for any connection requiring the use of either a Flat-Tip or Philips screwdrivers for dis-assembly.

Yamaha specifies Loctite 572 (low strength) all around the Jet Pump. In my opinion, due to the beating the Jet Pump area takes, Loctite 542 (med. strength)is more appropriate in this area. It's still relatively easy to remove for disassembly, and provides a better bond strength. Better insurance than 572.

The 500 series of the loctite family are officailly classified as a sealants, where as, Loctite 242 is not officially recognized as a sealant. However, 242 will & does seal-out moisture intrusion. Similar to loctite 572 and 542; loctite 242 will seal behind the area where a metal-to-metal bond occurs. However, unlike 572 or 542, Loctite 242 is easily found in any automotive store, even WalMart.

If you ride in a marine environment, or have a genuine concern about oxidation, then try a using LPS-3 Rust Inhibitor. It's an excellent sealant, just spray it around the base of your bolted connection and forget about it. Or, for lubrication around the steering nozzle, try Boeshield's T9. Both products are absolutly excellent for marine applications.


See ya!!

[ 06-02-2003, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: Gilbert ]

We all live and learn, Everything can be fixed, Its just sometimes it doesnt go as smooth as you would like it too. The hard part is over what im gonna do now is tighten the bolts down then pur that marine seal on the bolt head that way it cant back out.

Gilbert I am a by the book kind of person when it comes to assembly torque specs and proper sealant to use. So far I have not have any problems in any of the ski's that I have assembled. I will note that when using 242 loctite on the exhaust bolts this ones backed out when riding at the lake in rough water conditions. i will use nothing else but 271 in any of the exhaust bolts from the exhaust manifold to the OEM stinger pipe.

I am still trying to figure out what the heck Yamaha use on the pumpshoe/ rideplate bolts and why it is different than what they recommend.

When removing them for the first time I always heat them up first and then clean the threads on the bolts on a wire wheel.

Hola Fernando, que pasa:

For torq'ing I always go by the manual, no question about that.

At the pumpshoe, ride plate and intake grate Yamaha spec's 572. I use 242.

Check out the blow-up diagram at the start of Chapter 6. The diagram is a blow-up of the JET PUMP UNIT/ASSEMBLEY. On every connection Yamaha specifies the use of Loctite (LT) 572. The exceptions being for the the speedo/dreamometer connection to the ride plate (LT-242), and the steering nozzel connections at the pivot points (LT-271).

See ya, (oops) te veo'.

Gilbert I was refering to what the use in their assebly line. I can assure you that they do not use 572.

Thanks for the refresh course

I currently putting my '01 GPR12 back together and can't find anyone that sells Loctite 572 (the low strength thread sealant needed for around the
grate,pump shoe and ride plate. I like Fercho like to go by the book. Any other ideas, products?

Permatex has equivalent products, check out their web site for recommendations

"i will use nothing else but 271 in any of the exhaust bolts from the exhaust manifold to the OEM stinger pipe."

me too!

I have'nt experienced a problem with the exhaust manifold bolts, but since 2 of you guys have mentioned this as a problem area, I will keep my eyes on it. Thanks.