ok. he blew the motor, one of the pistons shattered. so we got another one. (complete motor) remanufactured. But with the new motor we seem to be having the same problems from the old motor. the ski revs out very quickly and makes minimal movment.. doesnt idle at all, and has some electricol problem cuz with a fully charged battery, there seems to be no power going to the electronics. But when the boat hasnt been run for like a week, it will start up, but as soon as it gets warm it dies out and wont restart nor crank over..

Someone said the oil pump for the oil injection could be blow, but i dont see how that could make the boat rev up and barley move. Another person said the carbs where out of wack and needed to be cleaned/adjusted. so we are clueless as what to try next..


Any ideas?


Also, anyone from CT wanna take a look and hopefully figure out what is going on?

anybody?

I would clean the carbs and put on a new oil injection unit unless you want to switch to pre-mix. If you had this problem before then most likely it's still there in the carb's or the oil injector.

Forgot to tell you! Use new gaskets on everything!

look for carb problems, pulse lines, air-in leek anywhere in fuel system or fuel restriction, carb rebuild would'nt be bad advice. Any time your engine's out and you don't mind an intake & exhaust gasket I would pressure / leak down test the case (their that's two good reasons to own a Mity Vac)

Also IMHO, loose the oiler and pre-mix, even better use a full snythetic like Amsoil.

Prayers and rabbits feet are free.

Oh yeah,
If you do want it, I'll sell my oil pump that I removed from my 97'GP1200 / 65U. It came of a perfectly running stock 1200 as I went to pre-mix.

tj

You seem to be describeing a bunch of different problems.

Do the simple stuff first and try to make it run on a trailer with a waterhose. Then you can move onto other problems.

Start with the basics.... fuel, spark, and oxygen. Eleminate each as a problem.

Air:

You should not have any problem here with your stock flame arrestor, but when you diagnose your carbs you will have to pull it to look inside of each carb.

Spark:

It is best to start with fresh plugs but if you do not have them, use what you have. Pull all three plugs out of the cylinders and then put the plugs back into the wires. Make sure the wires are in a position that the plug electrodes can go to ground when you crank the engine. Make sure there is no fuel floating around in the air, then crank it and check for spark. You would like to see a blue spark but ambient lighting may effect your judgement. Make a mental picture of the spark... color and how strong the spark is. If you have no spark, then it is a problem. If the boat starts, then dies after warm up and will not start, run the same test. Once again, check color and spark strength. These spark plug wires can go bad after they warm up. They crack internally and must arc to get to the plugs. After a while, they must jump so far that they cannot make the jump because the resistance is to great (wires get hot and resistance increases). A simple fix is to pull the spark plug connector (boot), cut 1/2 inch off the end of the wire and reattach the wire to the boot. Secure with tie wraps. This is a long shot, and you can see the boat running worse and worse after the boat runs for about 5 minutes and it warms up, but worth keeping in the back of your mind. This problem did not cause your bud's boat to "blow up" but it could keep it from running well like you described.

FUEL:

Do not just look at the fuel filter, either blow it out (use and air hose and blow it out backwards) or replace it.

Pull the flame arrestor, and look inside of each carb as the boat is running on the trailer. Use a bright flashlight and check for the same amount of fuel running into each carb as it idles. It is best to see a spray, but it may dribble in (dribbling in is a reason why it may idle bad). Rev the engine up and check to see that you have about the same fuel spraying into each carb. If you do not see this, it is a safe bet you have a carburator problem.

GP's are not known for starting easily. If you have this problem, then just drop about 1 teaspoon of gas into each carb and crank without pulling the gas throttle. If you look into the carbs, you will notice that each butterfly has a hole about the size of a dime to allow air to enter to get the right fuel/air mixture.

This is some basic stuff to start with and pretty easy to do with basic tools. Try them and get back to us with some real specific info. so that we can be of better help. There are a lot of things that can go wrong with these boats but a lot of good people willing to help if you give them the right info.

Actually, I think tj is probably right. I just believe in eliminating the simple stuff first and progressively moving on to more detailed stuff. Get back to us...

Salty

this thing is killing me!!!

Rebuild carbs and test your CDI before even trying to ride it again you may blow another short block.
11

The 97 carbs had a problem with the small plastic diaphrams crimping and not maintaining pressure in the carbs to provide adequate fuel at WOT.

This may be on of your problems.

Are you using the same carbs on this rebuilt motor as the one that had the problem?

Almost appears that your seizing the engine.

Did you adjust the oil injection system correctly?

How did you break the new engine in?