just got back from the lake testing my s/s triple pipe boat with the water routing coming from the cylinders to the pipes as discused in a previous post.the results kind of surprised me rpm went up to 7900 peak from 7720 peak. speed went to 73.8 from 72.2. tested at lake pleasant phoenix az. 1700ft elev. temp 65 about 50% humidity. water temp about 55degrees.pipes definetly ran hotter could be a problem when water and air temps heat up we'll have to see. bottom line it works.
Posts: 95 | Location: phoenix az | Registered: December 05, 2002
Im glad and not surprised to see that it works....I am concerned about the extra heat under the seat when used in hard race conditions, and even more so on those Hot 90-100 degree days.
Posts: 1393 | Location: Toronto/Ontario | Registered: June 27, 2001
malta,there was a definite gain thru out the whole power band,low mid and high.one thing of note if you rout the water with the heads dumping overboard.water will not circulate thru the pipes at idle.so if your going thru a no wake zone i suggest you blip the throttle to get rpm up in turn getting water thru the pipes.dont know how to do paragraphs or type well just starting to learn computer.mark i felt the water routing would work because larry and i had tryed simmilar routing the surprise was how much it took the rpm up. this opens up other possibilies for prop changes. remember we already no that when we leave phoenix and go to the col.river or the ocean we gain considerable rpm. and speed. also the fact there enduro boats want better hookup and better low and midrange. not to mention reliability hey give me a call on land line you know i hate typing.
Posts: 219 | Location: desert hills az | Registered: December 22, 2002
Mark, I'm making you type. You are now enrolled in the "typing for jetski tuners". Get that PC off that bookshelf and onto a desk, before you get carpel tunnel.
Seriously. Did you cap the existing 1/8" hole in the flanges, and tap a new 1/4"? If so, where on the flange did you choose to locate the hole? Did you open up the water path behind the flange?
Why have you teed the head outlets? I was planing to instal a second 90* elbow in the head and feed this into the pipes.
Adding "pre heated" water to the pipes may also help with potential cracking issues, due to the quenching and tempering action of cold water in hot pipes on start up.
Good to see RPM and speed gains.......
Cheers
Peter
Posts: 667 | Location: Melbourne, Australia | Registered: July 26, 2001
okay mark you got me typing.still don't know how to use keyboard.anyway no i did not enlarge the 1/8"fittings at the exhaust,s if you did this you have to do all 6 fittings inlets and outlets.when up and running water flows alot of volume out of overboards. like i said mark this could be a problem for us here in phoenix when it gets 110 degrees and the water is like bath tub water.blue i used the tees to make it easyier to switch back and forth to test.if i were making this routing setup permanant i would add the 90,s in the head
Posts: 219 | Location: desert hills az | Registered: December 22, 2002
Posibly not enough water movement to cool the cylinders properly.
You are replacing the in feed directly to the cylinders from the manifold (6 way). Potentialy reducing the amount of cool water by half.
The water that is usually bypassed 100 % over the side from the head is now being sent 50 % to the pipes and 50 % over the side. The difference now is the pipes get 2nd hand pre heated water from the heads instead of cold water from the 6 way manifold.
My question is long term, are the pipes going to get enough water flow to have effective cooling?
I still want to try it though.
Cheers
Peter
Posts: 667 | Location: Melbourne, Australia | Registered: July 26, 2001
To be sure you are getting water to the pipes at low speed, you can add a jetworks flow control valve in the line from the head to overboard. set it to open at apx. 3000 rpm. this should help keep the pipes cooler at low speed. Ross
Posts: 115 | Location: Perris, Ca | Registered: June 02, 2001