Any helpful hints or advise or little tricks to make install easier would be greatly appreciated. Do you loosley put the center pipe in first then the PTO? Stuff like that.Thanks forum homies... "The Wood Dog"
Posts: 3537 | Location: Minden,Nv | Registered: May 17, 2002
Didnt you get some directions with the pipes? If so, the way they describe installing them worked pretty good for me. You put the center chamber in,tighten the bottom mount on it, then put the mag chamber in. Its a little tight and takes a little elbow grease. Dont put the front aluminum mount on till you have both chambers in the boat, but before you tighten anything. Hope this helps.
Posts: 149 | Location: AL | Registered: May 20, 2002
Make sure that you trim the engine mounting left ear on the flywheel cover. Grease all of your O-Rings prior to installation. First the center pipe than the front pipe, install the springs prior to bolting the pipes to the brackets.
Locate the water manifold in front of the carbs. This makes it much easier and places it out of the way.
Install center chamber first with only the lower bracket loosely connected. Lay to the side(left). Install Mag pipe, by entering manifold end-first from the upper-right side of the engine, then gently and carefully twisting & turning to work it in. The PTO chamber is a breeze.
Word of advice. Take the time to remove bracket for the Power Valve control unit. This will make life much easier when installing the Mag Camber.
Also, very important (I learned the hard way), run all your wiring underneath the engine. Leave the pathway along the Left side of your engine clean, with only the Steering Cable and Speedo/Dreamometer cable occupying this area. I had a water line laying to the side that some how worked its way next to my stinger tube and rubbed a hole in one of Mag stinger pipes.
If you have access to a TIG or MIG welder, weld the stinger inserts (2-tack-welds on opposite sides)to the expansion chambers. To weld the stinger inserts, you'll have to notch (half-moon) the outer-layer of the expansion chambers to allow for welding. If you can't weld, take you pipes to a machine shop. It will be cheap insurance and could save you a major headache or inconvenience.
I crimped my inserts as suggested in the instructions, but lost one. The damm thing vibrated it's way out and worked it's way down the stinger tube, out of the water box, out the exhaust duct and into the lake. Performance went to sh!t real fast.
Remember, your PWC takes a beating and if anything can come loose,......it will. DO NOT USE LOCTITE RED (271, 277 etc.). It's bond is far to strong for aluminum applications. Use loctite 242, medium strength, it's more than strong enough to resist loosening in PWC.
Leave the stinger pipes for last, and install while water box is loose. Loosening the water box will make it much easier to install the stingers.
TAKE THE TIME TO RUN YOUR WIRES UNDERNEATH. USE PLENT OF ZIP-TIES TO KEEP THINGS NEAT AND CLEAN.
Good luck. With those pipes on your GPR your in for a **** of a rush. For your next project, look to installing the gas operated power valves, they will significantly reduce the chance for detonation. See ya!!
Gilbert my man..........thanks for the great info and thank everyone else for their input.This info is like gold! Everyone tells me im in for a rush.Im sure i won't be dissapointed.
Posts: 3537 | Location: Minden,Nv | Registered: May 17, 2002