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I was considering taking off the black handlebar cover and seeing what the ski would look like without it. Does anyone have any pics?....

What are my options without going with a full UMI setup? just curious

Dave
 
Posts: 115 | Location: Toms River, New Jersey | Registered: June 03, 2002Report This Post
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NJGpr

Do a search on riva "Aftermarkt Handlebars On Stock Steering Stem" I had the same question back in early Jan.
If you cant find it Ill post it when I get home.
Mick
 
Posts: 1244 | Location: Houston-Galveston, Texas | Registered: August 22, 2001Report This Post
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Thanks for the feedback Mick, I'll do a search and see if I can dig it up..thanks again

Dave
 
Posts: 115 | Location: Toms River, New Jersey | Registered: June 03, 2002Report This Post
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u dont need to get the whole set up. u can buy umi bars and mount them to the stock stem with the stock clamps and bolts. I have a drop nozzel kit on mine, but u would have to mount the stock trim on the handlebars, which can be done.

The stock handlebars are just ugly. I was thinkin about just removing the cover, but its worth just to buy a set of umi bars.
 
Posts: 558 | Registered: January 08, 2002Report This Post
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So I can still use the stock Trim and trigger throttle with the UMI bars?...because if this is the case then I'll go with a set of UMI bars and be done with it.

My biggest thing was having to sand or file to get the stuff on the new bars ya know...

Dave
 
Posts: 115 | Location: Toms River, New Jersey | Registered: June 03, 2002Report This Post
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Richies right the stock bars are ugly!last year i took my cover off and thought i could polish the OE bars but after a lot of work and very little progress they were still ugly.you can use umi bars on the stock stem or if you want to go with tapered bars you can get a universal clamp kit and still use the stock stem.

GPoweR
 
Posts: 492 | Location: north carolina | Registered: July 16, 2001Report This Post
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there r little things sticking out from the inside of the choke handle, and the OEM trigger i think. This is because the stock bars have holes drilled out so the "things" can fit into them and just lock together. All u have to do is just grind those down, or sand them down, or wat ever method u have. I did mine with a grinding wheel and just grinded that little knob thing off.
 
Posts: 558 | Registered: January 08, 2002Report This Post
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anyone drill some small holes in their new bars to accomodate the factory nubbed equipment?
 
Posts: 1830 | Location: Minneapolis | Registered: January 01, 2001Report This Post
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i just grinded the nubs down, much easier than drilling holes
 
Posts: 558 | Registered: January 08, 2002Report This Post
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I drilled for the start/stop switch only. I wanted to make sure it was secure since this is where the lanyard hooks on.
 
Posts: 258 | Location: Kansas City, MO | Registered: November 05, 2001Report This Post
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I ground mine off too, but I used Renthal bars and the stock trim wouldn't work. The bars were a bit bigger than stock so it wouldn't slide on and still twist. I had to go with the quick drop nozzle set up instead.
 
Posts: 371 | Location: Seabrook, Texas | Registered: July 17, 2002Report This Post
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Here is a little info i am currently working on with some pics. Please excuse the typos [Smile]

http://efreaked.com/hbinstall.htm
 
Posts: 474 | Location: reserve,la | Registered: March 25, 2003Report This Post
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Wow, those are some great pics you have there efreak..it should make a handlebar swap easy...

Nice shots and thanks again!..I'm going to go with the UMI bars...

Dave
 
Posts: 115 | Location: Toms River, New Jersey | Registered: June 03, 2002Report This Post
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One more question, I get the part where the nub needs to be grinded and filed down..but how do you mount the stock start/stop to the UMI's without drilling the bars themselves??..along with the trim etc....

Dave
 
Posts: 115 | Location: Toms River, New Jersey | Registered: June 03, 2002Report This Post
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Just mount them on there and tighten them back down. They really dont move as bad as you would think. At least mine dont.
 
Posts: 474 | Location: reserve,la | Registered: March 25, 2003Report This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by OzarkGPR:
I drilled for the start/stop switch only. I wanted to make sure it was secure since this is where the lanyard hooks on.

I only drilled the start/stop switch also. I didnt want it to be twisting on the bars.
Mick
 
Posts: 1244 | Location: Houston-Galveston, Texas | Registered: August 22, 2001Report This Post
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I just ordered the polished UMI bars from Atlantic...so hopefully they will be here sometime toward the end of the week...

I'm going to retain the stock grips and all the other mechanisms for now...

Thanks for the help on this one folks...I will be sure to follow efreak's instructions on removing and installing the new bars..

Dave
 
Posts: 115 | Location: Toms River, New Jersey | Registered: June 03, 2002Report This Post
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Efreak,
Nice job.
 
Posts: 4592 | Location: Mesa, Arizona | Registered: March 15, 2002Report This Post
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Thanks bro... I figured someone would appreciate it.. I have more in the worksSmile
 
Posts: 474 | Location: reserve,la | Registered: March 25, 2003Report This Post
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I just got the UMI bars via UPS today, it took them about a week to get to me..but anyway...

They look pretty good, polished with the UMI chin pad. I did notice that the right side of the handlebars had a predrilled hole...I thought this was interesting, I thought the bars were solid all the way across..????

Dave
 
Posts: 115 | Location: Toms River, New Jersey | Registered: June 03, 2002Report This Post
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